Summertime in Cornwall is a real treat, both on a personal and a professional level, with amazing produce at hand and the freedom to cook interesting, enticing dishes for a variety of guests, most of them excited to try new dishes and make the most of the wonderful fresh fish and whatever the kitchen garden has to offer. During the winter, I cook for a Swiss family spanning three generations – though a lovely bunch, the meal options and creative opportunities are rather more limited… suffice to say, I don’t think I’ll be voluntarily going anywhere near raclette, fondue or pizza for a while after this. The head of the family, however, has a penchant for all things offal and so – being alone in his passion and thus finding it hard to indulge – he was over the moon when he discovered that, not only do I know how to cook the stuff, I also have a source here in Verbier. From lamb’s brain to kidneys, veal sweetbreads to testicles (haven’t found the latter yet – not trying too hard to track them down, if I’m honest), he goes misty-eyed at the merest mention of offal. While I fully applaud his attitude to nose-to-tail eating, I can’t quite share his delight at the end result – apart from the sweetbreads, which I’ve learnt to appreciate, I am no offal-lover. But sweetbreads, I do urge you to try. They take a bit of time to prepare and they ain’t pretty, but they are worth the effort and mild revulsion during the initial preparation… honest. Mark Hix describes them as having “a delicate texture and taste… really well suited to all types of cooking, frying, roasting, braising and even mixing with such delicacies as lobster, langoustine tails and crayfish in either a stew or a salad.” Not bad for a lowly thymus gland…
Calves’ sweetbreads with Madeira sauce or sauce Gribiche
If doing this for dinner, start the morning of the day before.
First, soak your sweetbreads in cold water for about 4 hours – this helps to remove the membrane and general gunk that coats them (I’m really selling this, aren’t I?).
Bring a pan of water to the boil, add salt, then your sweetbreads – simmer for 10 minutes.
Drain the sweetbreads and place in iced water until cold.
Using your hands, peel the membrane from the sweetbreads and lay them in a single layer in a dish. Place a dish (an identical one, if you have it) on top and weigh it down with a few cans. Put in the fridge for between 12 and 24 hours to flatten the sweetbreads.
Dry the sweetbreads with kitchen paper and slice them on a slant, about 1cm thick.
Set up three plates – one for flour (season with salt and pepper), one for egg (beaten) and one for breadcrumbs. Coat each slice in flour (shake off excess), egg (again, shake off excess) and breadcrumbs, then lay on a plate until ready to fry (if you wish, you can do this a few hours in advance and leave them, covered, in the fridge).
Clarify some butter (melt in a pan and pour off the white curd, leaving just the yellow butter – this burns at a higher temperature, meaning you can get the pan nice and hot) and heat up your pan. Add clarified butter and fry the breaded slices of sweetbread for a minute or two each side (in batches, if needs be), until the coating is crispy and golden brown, but not burnt. When cooked, lay on a warmed plate and keep warm until ready to serve.
Serve with some sautéed mushrooms and a Madeira sauce, which I make simply by adding Madeira to some reduced veal stock in a warm pan, simmer for a couple of minutes and finish off by whisking in a few cubes off butter at the last minute. Or you can serve the sweetbreads with a sauce Gribiche, which you make by mixing together the following ingredients to a texture like that of Tartare sauce – if it’s too thick, you can add a few drops of water:
- 2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
- 4 gherkins, finely chopped
- 2 Tblspns capers
- 2 tspns Dijon mustard
- 2 Tblspns mayonnaise
- Juice of half a lemon
- 2 eggs, hard boiled and grated or finely chopped
- ½ Tblspn tarragon leaves chopped
- ½ Tblspn chervil, finely chopped
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To accompany, I like a salad of baby leaves or lamb’s lettuce with a tangy vinaigrette dressing and some crusty bread on the side.
I’d add a photo, but I’ve never found this the most photogenic of dishes. But trust me when I tell you that they really are delicious and they look a bit like chicken nuggets. Instead, here’s a nice photo of my view, taken a few days ago…
|Sunet on New Year’s Day 2012, Verbier
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